Every dive shop, dive boat, and scuba diver uses scuba tanks. While we have all utilized the Aluminum 80 cubic foot tank, we have seen a great many different sizes and shapes in additional scuba tanks. Each of those”different” scuba tanks includes a unique advantage/disadvantage, utilize, and cost. How do you choose the best scuba tank?
Choosing the Ideal tank
Budget. The reason why the Aluminum 80 tank is everywhere is it is cheap. But are the Aluminum 50, 63, and 100-foot components, so why would be the 80 cubic foot the hottest? It is simply as it is the first Aluminum size (actually the next dimension ), however, the first 72 cubic foot Aluminum units were curved bottoms and a bit taller.
Physical Size of the Scuba tank. It is generally the length of the tank and not the diameter that will bother most scuba divers. With no dragging it across the ship dock carrying the tank is a sign that the weight can not be carried by you or your arms are not long enough. If strength isn’t the issue perhaps the tank is too long. Or if you keep hitting your head on the tank valve and the bottom of the tank is currently tilted at the exact same time, then the tank is too long. The two major tank manufacturers (Catalina and Luxfer) both create an Aluminum 80 tank that is 3 inches shorter than the standard tank. By increasing the diameter of the tank, they do this, however, it’s a bit more heavy. The Aluminum 63 cubic foot tank is 21.5 inches. Some of the high heeled steel tanks are only 20 inches in length.
The Air Capacity of the Scuba tank. Why take back the air to the ship, if your air consumption is markedly less than your dive friend? A cubic foot is ideal if I am diving with pupils; then a bigger 50. If I’m diving than I utilize my own 100 cubic foot tank, even while the 50-foot tank is used by her. Select the capacity that best matches dive objective your air consumption and security considerations that are appropriate.
Weight and Buoyancy factors. The major drawback of Aluminum Scuba tanks is that they have a tendency to become positively buoyant. The Aluminum 80 cubic foot tank could be around 5 pounds of positive buoyancy in 500 psi. Both Catalina and Luxfer make a newer neutral buoyancy Aluminum 80 tank to figure out this dilemma. Of course, you might wish to consider a steel tank. These metal scuba tanks don’t have the buoyancy issues that are positive that Aluminum tanks experience and are approximately 20 inches in length. The drawback of the steel scuba tanks (3500 psi) is that they operate at higher pressures and not all dive operations can fulfill them. The steel material tends to rust if any humidity or water enters the inside of the tank. The cost of the steel components maybe 2 or 3 times the Aluminum unit’s costs.
Things to Understand about diving tanks
The very first thing to learn about a scuba diving tank or canister is the fact that almost always the recreational diver will get it filled with clean air, not oxygen. That is contrary to what many tv programs would have us believe! It is not an oxygen tank – it’s an air cylinder.
If it was filled with pure oxygen, diving deeper than around 6m and breathing pure oxygen might actually kill the diver!
What’s In It Then?
Believe it or not, just plain, pure, clean compressed air. Nothing fancy! Your dive center will use a compressor filter it to remove water and particles to suck air and squash it so there is plenty to breathe on your dive!
Is It Always Just Fresh Air?
A canister does not necessarily just contain air. Divers use nitrox or trimix to permit them to dive deeper and for longer and occasionally oxygen during decompression stops – but only more than 6 meters!
What Is A Scuba Diving Tank Made Of?
The solid, and often heavy, tanks are made from steel or aluminum. Pick one up and you’ll know – the steel ones are much heavier. Because of this, divers in suits, who need more weight to fix the positive effects of the exposure lawsuit, may tend to wear the heavier steel tanks to prevent carrying so many loose weights.
How Long Does The Air At A Cylinder Last?
This is actually a very complicated question. Simply speaking, the deeper you go, the bigger the tank, the more heavy you breathe, the harder you are swimming, etc the longer the time you will get out of a tank.
The dilemma is it requires more air molecules to fulfill your lungs in-depth than to the surface due to the consequences of pressure at depth. You are taking a lot more from the tank with every breath – in fact, 3 and 4 times as much.
Swimming difficult allows you to breath more difficult and, of course, that a 12-liter cylinder carries a lot less air than a 15-liter cylinder. But, a beginner diver should be able to generate a 40 into dive as long as they are not going deep!
Why Does The Tank Feel Lighter After A Dive
Believe it or not, the difference in weight is the weight of the atmosphere that you have breathed! That weight difference is how much air you’ve gone through during the dive.
What Safety Precautions Should Be Followed?
Obviously, take care when lifting a dive tank – it’s heavy! But it’s also full of compressed air, so make sure it is not going to fall over. Take care not to damage the part where you plug into your regulators, nor lose the o-ring. A tank shouldn’t be fully drained. Moist air inside stops from getting in, which damages the inside of the tank and could lead to rust.
Learning how to preserve the air in the tank
One action provides you the skill of atmosphere conservation to slow how fast you burn off the air in your scuba tank greater than any breathing technique that is available.
That activity is: dive more often.
The more you dive, the greater the scuba diver you become, the more skills you learn, the higher your comfort level submerged grows, and the slower you breathe while you’re driving.
Stating that diving frequency is the single most activity that influences your speed of air intake is my personal opinion of course, and you might disagree, but consider what you gain by diving every chance you get.
As divers we learn many distinct ways we can employ to slow down how fast we burn the air in our freshwater aquariums, so we are able to stay submerged for more dive times, and watch much more of the aquatic world we enjoy.
We know how to set up our dive gear to provide us lower friction resistance as we fin through the water.
We know how to adjust our buoyancy profile so we don’t constantly fight our level of thickness, which tires out us and which makes us breathe harder, and faster.
We hear about various methods of breathing which helps us conserve atmosphere so we make longer dives.
Instructors, divemasters, and fellow divers at DNS Diving Grand Cayman discuss their personal air conservation styles, and how the methods they utilize give them much dive time you would believe they’ve gills.
Not 1 method of breathing management, or some other gear trimming method, provides you longer dive times until you try it, make sure it fits your personal diving style and comfort level, then use it enough times that it becomes automatic dependence for you each single time you put your dive gear on and enter the water.
You’ve heard that experience is the best teacher. I believe that the experience of others is the very best teacher.
But you do not really learn anything until you internalize it by putting the knowledge into personal training, get so comfortable with it which you master the method, and eventually, allow it to be second nature for you.
Then you keep using that procedure so it remains automatic.